Prunus mume repot and trimming

I repotted the japanese plum this spring and cut it back just moderately. To be honest, despite reading articles on the species and how to go about pruning them, I dont feel comfortable yet to give it a real hard pruning that is certainly needs. It is in flower at the moment (mid december) and I am thinking hard how to go on with this one...

Bonsai work table

Last year I decided to build a bonsai table that would allow me to both rotate and tilt the trees in one plane while working on them. Inspired by some tutorials how to make them yourself which you can find online and some commercially available ones I came up with a quite simple version. I decided to choose a more durable wood for the top layer of the table so it can get wet even though I would not advise to keep it outside in rainy weather as its lifetime will suffer for sure. The bolts can be changed depending on whether I want to fit a round/oval or rectangular/square pot or container on it while tilting the table. It can be adjusted to a broad variety heights due to the block that allows 3 different options. I bought a relatively cheap turning wheel made from plastic off amazon, but it should be strong enough for all sizes of trees im planning to put on the table.

Prunus Mahaleb Update

Chinese elm Update

Weigelia florida sp.

Cotoneaster graveyard yamadori - update

The Cotoneaster horizontalis was repotted into a training pot in the spring of last year.

The long, untapered stems were reduced significantly and the shoots were cut back to about 3 nodes.

Ulmus parvifolia development

In june 2013 I aquired this chinese elm at the international Bonsai- and Kusamono exhibition. It was the first prepared raw bonsai material I have bought. 

The tree had several long, untapered shoots which, from today's perspective, I should have cut back hard after the aquirement. However, I let it establish at its new home and let it grow freely for the rest of the season,

after I bought the tree in the summer of 2013

summer 2013

The first major "stylings" were done in the early spring of 2014. I decided to cut all but one branch that emerged at the top of the tree to form an apex. The branches that emerged at the trunk were also cut back. The tree was allowed to grow for the whole season except some cutback of the branches to improve ramification. 

The top could grow unchecked to significantly thicken the transition from the main trunk to the leader and close the wounds that emerged after I cut back a few branches at the top.

Even though I was quite please with the looks of the tree then, I would have cut back the branches stronger as they appeared untapered and too long. Also the potting position would have to be changed.

summer 2014

summer 2014

This year, I finally repotted the tree and planted it into a much more fitting position. The nebari turned out to be quite ok with only a slight inverse taper at one side of the tree. I was a bit conservative with the root cutback as this was my first repotting of the tree and it was my first major aquirement. 

A new leader at the top was selected and is allowed to grow unchecked this season. I cut back several branches harder in the spring to create a better taper.

The main goal will be the creation of a nice and believable transition in the trunkline at the top, but the branches will also be allowed to grow strong to promote considerable thickening and also create character in the trunk.

July 2015